- Posts: 52
Amazing session here yesterday. It was big (double overhead) and very glassy. I was riding my long board and catching the huge set waves. Long ride and then closer to the beach they were barreling. I got inside one barrel and then wiped out. Came down heavily on the fin. A few inches to one side I would have cracked my ribs for sure, but as luck would have it I didn’t land on point of the fin but rather to one side of it. There was so much impact that the stainless steel anchor screw for the fin snapped (that has never happened to me in over 35 years of surfing). So then I am out the back in huge sets (by myself) with no fin.
Anyway I made it back alive and am heading down right now on the run in tide for another session.
Keep going posting your videos Azlan, they look really cool. I never have my phone with me when I go for a surf, but I will in the next few weeks try to get some new shots to post here.