- Posts: 52
Sorry I haven’t replied for a while. This week the surf has been amazing. Big clean ground swell with no wind. I think it was coming in from the Nicobar Islands and also has held up for days because of the biggest full moon in 137 years (super moon) due on the 14th of this month (which is also the night of the loy kratong festival).
I have been surfing my brains out… I was out at the reef yesterday in 2.5 meter glassy swells and surfed by myself for 3 or 4 hours. Then had some lunch and surfed till after dark at the river mouth.
Just got back from another sunset session today. It was absolute perfect glass and was barreling on the sets. I have been testing out some new epoxy short boards on lone from a new shaper and got some really great waves.
I am tired. I have surfed 6-7 hours straight every day for the last 4 days. Very stoked but also very weary. Not easy surfing all day in big swell when you get to my age. Anyway just looked at the forecast and it looks like there might be a couple of smaller days left and the BIGGGGG FLAT….until next year.
Very very quite this year. Tourist numbers are way down around here compared to last year. But that is fine by me.
Maybe next season you will have a surfboard and you can fly up here and I will pick you up at the airport… 🙂
And yeah it would be great if we could arrange a trip somewhere. I love Lombok have been there many times but not in the last decade. I saw that MSW has a photo of the day the other day from Gili Trawangan. There is a reef break there (it used to be a big secret prior to the internet) and I have surfed it a few times long ago when it was epic. I was quite surprised to see it on MSW.
Say hi to the other guys for me.
Ask Lee if he voted for Donald Trump?